Thursday, March 12, 2015

Essential Makeup Tips for Every Portrait Photographer


Four ingredients are necessary to achieve beautiful
looking skin in portrait photography: a healthy and
rested subject, makeup, good lighting, and talented
retouching. Other than recommending a good night’s
sleep and drinking plenty of water, there’s little a
photographer can do to change the given subject.
Makeup, however, can balance skin tones, correct most
skin imperfections, and even change the perceived
shape of a subject’s face. Makeup applied well will also
boost the effects of good lighting and minimize the work
needed later in retouching.

Fashion and glamour photographers know the benefits
of makeup and usually have a makeup artist on set.
Portrait photographers are often not that fortunate.
Typically, they work with the makeup — or lack of
makeup — the subject wears, then correct for shine,
blotches, and uneven skin tone in post-production. But,
with a few makeup supplies and a bit of practice, any
photographer can develop enough skill to apply basic
makeup and improve a portrait right from capture.
This tutorial suggests what you might want to include
in a makeup kit, introduces the basics of makeup
application, and covers the important considerations of
hygiene.

The Tools

Makeup artists spend hundreds of dollars on equipping
their kit, but you will only need a few items to apply
basic makeup before a portrait. That said, there are two
important points to consider.

- Cheap products usually give shoddy results. You
don’t need to purchase the very best but I do
recommend you shop in a reputable makeup store, at
the cosmetics counter of a department store, or in a
pharmacy with an expanded cosmetics section. Some
ideal products can also be purchased online

- More people are demanding cosmetics that are free of
animal testing and animal byproducts. People are
also increasingly resisting or are sensitive to harmful
ingredients often found in cosmetics. Anticipate
these potential objections and purchase cosmetics
and tools that are animal friendly and free of the
worst of the harmful ingredients

Brushes and Applicators

I recommend beginning with a kit of three brushes: a
face brush, a blush or powder brush, and a concealer or
lip brush. A number of companies now make animal-free
brushes from bamboo. They are soft, durable,
inexpensive, and clean up easily. If you’re looking for
brushes that can withstand some abuse, spend a little
bit more money and purchase good quality synthetic
brushes. Be sure, however, that the larger synthetic
brushes are very soft and pliable.

1. Face brush: the largest and fluffiest of makeup
brushes, often about 2 inches wide with the bristles
curved in a rounded shape

2. Blush or powder brush: a medium sized, soft brush, 1
to 1.5 inches wide with curved edges. This brush will
serve double duty, so avoid purchasing a small blush
brush.

3. Concealer or lip brush: a small brush, about 0.25 to
0.5 inches wide, with ends tapered to a rounded
point

4. Wedge-shaped disposable sponges are handy for all
sorts of things. Look for these packaged in a round
or square shape, scored to be torn apart into
wedges. ( Tip : Disposable makeup sponges are also a
great tool for propping up items in a still life.)

5. Cotton swabs are indispensable and useful for many
tasks. Splurge for a brand-name product with tightly
wound swabs. Budget swabs often cause more of a
mess than they clean.

6. Popsicle sticks or tongue depressors are also useful
for a number of things. Check your local craft shop
for inexpensive boxes of sticks. This is one product
to purchase as cheaply as you can.

7. Disposable hand towels are another indispensable
product. Tissues are not strong enough. Paper towels
are a good second choice but they are not as easy to
pack in a small kit.

8. Blotting film or facial blotting paper is the last
disposable item to add to your kit. The films or
papers will come in small cardboard packages of
about 30 sheets. They are inexpensive and you’ll use
these a great deal, even if you don’t apply any
makeup at all.

Cosmetics

You will be able to apply basic makeup with a
surprisingly small kit of makeup. You may wish to add
more or different products if you find you’re often
applying makeup, but begin with just the basics.

1. Translucent loose setting powder: This powder will
have a very light skin tone colour in the jar but
applies neutrally on almost all skin tones. Mineral-
based powder is popular and works well. If you are
feeling adventurous, mineral-based loose powders
can also be purchased with more colour. With
practice, you can match almost any skin tone by
blending from a combination of three, perhaps four,
basic shades.

2. Concealer: This is an inexpensive staple for any
makeup kit. You can purchase a small pot of each of
three shades of concealer cream (light, medium, and
dark), but if you have the patience for shopping, I
recommend looking for what is often called a
“concealer wheel” or “concealer palette.” This single
container will contain light, medium, and dark skin
tones plus yellow, green, and light purple or pink.

3. Blush or bronzer: It can be tough picking just one
blush or one bronzer that will work on most skin
tones, but NARS makes both, which can often be
purchased at holiday time as a pair in one case. Look
for NARS Orgasm blush and NARS Laguna bronzer. I
have yet to encounter a situation where this blush/
bronzer duo has failed me. Blending the two shades
will work on skin tones that don’t take either the
blush or bronzer on their own.

4. Rice powder: This is a very fine, light, loose white or
very pale powder used for absorbing excess oils and
highlighting features. Be sure to purchase the real
thing and not a chemical substitute. Real rice powder
will go on almost invisibly; chemical substitutes will
add or change colour. If you’re unable to find rice
powder in the cosmetics shops, try a theatre supply
store. This is not an expensive product.

5. Lip gloss or cream: As with blush and bronzer, it can
be difficult to find just one lip colour that will look
attractive on all skin tones. It’s rare that a woman
will arrive for a photograph without her lipstick in her
purse, and most men would rather give lip treatments
a pass. Still, I recommend keeping a pot, squeezable
tube, or stick of clear lip gloss, and if you wish, a
few tinted lip balms. Do not purchase lip gloss in a
long container with a stick applicator. It is almost
impossible to use gloss this way without
contaminating it.

Cleaning Products

It is absolutely essential that you keep your hands,
brushes, and cosmetics clean.

- Hand sanitizer: Any one will do, although I
recommend avoiding any sanitizer with a heavy
scent. Wipe your hands well with sanitizer before and
after every makeup application.

- Brush cleanser: Look for a conditioning brush
cleanser in a spray bottle, or purchase a small spray
bottle and fill it with isopropyl alcohol. Spray every
brush thoroughly when you are finished a makeup
application. Let the spray sit for a minute or two on
the brush, then wipe the brushes clean with a
disposable hand towel. Brushes that have been used
with blush or contour may need a few cleanings to
remove all of the makeup.

- Cosmetic sanitizer: Isopropyl alcohol in a spray
bottle will also work as a cosmetic sanitizer, but it
will discolour makeup with repeated use. A better
choice is a sanitizing mister made especially for
cosmetics. Makeup artists swear by a cosmetic
sanitizer made by Beauty So Clean. It can even be
purchased in very small portable spray bottles.
Lightly spray all cosmetics with sanitizer after every
makeup application and leave the cosmetics open for
a few minutes to air dry.



:::: Applying Makeup to Women ::::

Most women will have taken some care to apply at least
the minimum of makeup before being photographed. To
be sure they have, suggest when arranging the
photography session that they apply face cream and
foundation before arriving for the shoot. Also remind
them to be certain to bring their lipstick with them.
When your client arrives, assess each step before
applying or correcting your client’s makeup. Your
client’s makeup may be just fine or may only need some
minor touchups. Only add or repair what’s needed.

Blot and Conceal

This is a critical stage of applying makeup for
photographs. Done well, blotting and concealing will
transform skin irregularities and save a great deal of
retouching later. Done poorly and you’ll spend more
time retouching.

Your first step is to use blotting paper to blot up any
obviously oil spots. Simply press the blotting paper to
the oily area, lift, and repeat as necessary, using a clean
section of blotting paper each time. Do not rub!
Then, using your smallest brush (the lip or concealer
brush), dab concealer on blemishes, dark under eye
circles, and any other area needing a bit of correction.
Dab on a bit of concealer with your brush, wait a minute
or so, then use a clean finger to lightly dab the
concealer to begin to blend it in. (You will finish
blending in the next stage.)

Applying concealer demands that you think about colour
theory and shading. Apply green to red blotches, yellow
to purple-blue under eye circles on olive or tan skin,
and light purple or pink to under eye circles on fair skin.
Then use a flesh-toned concealer the same as, or
slightly lighter than, your client’s skin to even out the
corrections. Consider using a darker flesh-toned
concealer to make areas recede (for example, on a
prominent nose bump) or a lighter flesh-toned concealer
to bring areas forward (for example, on sunken skin
below under eye circles).

Correcting or Balancing Foundation

With excess oil removed and any blemishes covered,
check your client’s foundation. Some women are
generous in applying foundation or fail to adequately
blend foundation along the jaw line. If this is the case
with your client, dampen one of your wedge sponges
and use it in light gentle strokes to even out the
foundation. Pay particular attention to her jawline and
hair line, ensuring any makeup lines are smoothly
blended out.

Some women may not have applied quite enough
foundation. If this is the case, use your largest brush
(the face brush) and brush on lightly tinted setting
powder. This is also when you might apply tinted
mineral powders if you’re experimenting with those. Or,
if your client has very dark skin, use a popsicle stick
and scrape a tiny bit of contour into some tinted setting
powder. Powder will not provide deep coverage, but it
will supplement a thin application of foundation.

Blush and Contour

If you’ve never applied makeup to another person, this
stage will initially feel awkward using a brush and
makeup in this way. Practice in advance by brushing
makeup onto white sheets of paper. Watercolour paper is
ideal for practising because it mimics the feel of skin.
To get the most out of your practice, download a blank
face sketch from the Internet, print it on watercolour
paper, and practice applying makeup to the sketch.
When you are ready to apply blush and contour to your
client, ask her to smile broadly. Use your medium-sized
brush (blush or powder brush) to apply blush from the
apex of the apple of her cheeks in a very slight curve
down and then up, almost to her ears. Brush the blush
on in light strokes, brushing on more makeup in layers
until you’ve achieved a look that is slightly more
dramatic than natural.

Next, ask your client to suck in her cheeks. Use your
blush or powder brush with your bronzer to lightly apply
a bit of contour in the sunken area of her cheeks from
about mid-cheek back to hair line. A little contouring
goes a long way. When you begin feeling more confident
applying contour, consider applying it down the middle
of a woman’s nose, at her temples, and on the tip of her
chin. This will make your client’s face look a bit thinner.

Blending

For good makeup application, blend, blend, and blend
some more. Begin with your large face brush and lightly
sweep in circles to begin to blend in the edges of the
blush and contour you’ve applied. Finish blending by
using your face brush to lightly brush on some light
flesh coloured translucent powder.

Highlight and Manage Shine

Rice powder can be used at this stage both to add some
highlights to your client’s face and to tone down any
shiny areas. To add highlights, use a clean blush or face
brush (be sure you’ve cleaned it of blush and contour),
dip the tip of the brush in some rice powder and gently
touch the rice powder onto the areas you wish to
highlight. Then use your face brush to blend.

Adding highlights to either side of the bridge of your
client’s nose — near the inside corners of her eyes —
will brighten her eyes. To lift a tired look, add a bit of
highlighting to the very top of her cheek bones near the
bottom of her eye sockets, particularly toward the outer
corners of her eyes toward her temples.

If your client has some shiny areas — and this may be
all you need to correct for some clients — apply some
rice powder on the shine using your face brush. Go
lightly; it’s easy to over-correct and end up with overly
pale looking skin.

Lips

Finish by ensuring your client’s lips are smooth,
polished, and moist looking. If your client has brought
her own lipstick, have her use that. If, however, she did
not bring it or her lips need a bit of moisture or shine,
use a popsicle stick (or tongue depressor) to scoop a
bit of lip gloss out of a pot or to scrape a bit of tinted
lip balm off the tube. Apply the gloss or balm from the
stick with a clean concealer or lip brush. Don’t use your
fingers or let your client use her fingers; more gloss or
balm will remain on your fingers than on your client’s
lips.

Assess

At each stage, step back from your client to assess what
you have applied or corrected. You can always layer on
a bit more makeup where needed, but it’s difficult to
neatly remove too much makeup.

Before and after without retouching. (I asked my model
to apply her own mascara.)



:::: Applying Makeup to Men ::::

To my surprise and delight, I have never had a man
refuse my suggestion of a bit of corrective makeup.
Typically, I limit makeup application for men to
concealing and managing shine.

Blot and Conceal

Always use blotting paper on a man’s skin before
applying any concealer. Men naturally produce a heavier
oil on their faces. If the oil is not blotted, concealer will
easily slip off with every attempt to apply it. Otherwise,
the same principles for applying concealer to women
applies to men. You may only need to be a bit more
diligent in blending concealer over shaved facial hair.

Managing Shine

Rice powder works wonderfully to matte shine on a
man’s face, especially on high foreheads and bald spots.
Even if you are not able to completely matte shine in
those areas, rice powder will bring the shine down
enough that you will have texture to work with in those
areas of the photograph when retouching. As with
women, apply rice powder to men lightly with a large
face brush, blend well, and check to be sure you have
not created pasty-white areas.

If your client’s skin tone is dark and you are trying to
matte significant shine, blend a little tinted translucent
powder with the rice powder before applying.

Alternatively, Arbonne makes a powder (FC5 Mattifying
Powder) that works wonderfully. It’s a pressed powder
and looks light green in the compact, but goes on
neutral with every skin tone. It will matte shine but
won’t lighten skin or add highlights.

Lips

Some men, particularly those who spend a great deal of
time outdoors, have dry or flaking lips. Ask if you might
apply a little clear lip balm in this case, or offer it to
your client to apply with his finger. This is a
circumstance when applying lip balm does work better
with a finger. Rub the balm in well; you typically don’t
want shiny traces on a man’s lips.

Clean

Before finishing up, take a close look at your client.
Remove smudges, makeup flakes, or lint with a cotton
swab. Use your face brush or a damp disposable sponge
to blend any makeup that needs just a tiny bit more
blending. And use a damp disposable sponge to remove
stains or lint from clothing.

Finally, always clean your brushes and cosmetics after
every use. Use a conditioning brush spray or isopropyl
alcohol on your brushes and cosmetic sanitizer or
isopropyl alcohol on your cosmetics. Throw away any
disposable items you used. And always wash your
hands with soap and running water or with sanitizer as
soon as you are finished.



Practice, Practice, Practice

Applying makeup to another person does not come
naturally. There is a reason why makeup artists are paid
handsomely for their work. But with a few tools, a small
bag of cosmetics, and practice, you will be able to
address the worst of makeup or skin flaws before you
capture your client’s portrait.

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